Ellen von Unwerth

Ellen von Unwerth
Ellen Von Unwerth, 2019
Born	1954 (age 70–71) Frankfurt, West Germany
Occupation	Photographer
Awards	Editorial, Advertising and Fashion Photography award – Royal Photographic Society 2020
Website	ellenvonunwerth.com

Ellen von Unwerth (born 1954) is a German photographer. She began her career as a fashion model, before becoming a fashion, editorial, and advertising photographer.

Early life and education

Von Unwerth was born in Frankfurt, West Germany. As an orphan, during her early childhood, she often ended up in Bavarian foster care systems.

As a teenager, she wasn’t particularly ambitious, living in a hippie commune where she lived freely, passing exams just enough to get by, without the pressures many young people face today. She spent her school years in the Bavarian mountains, renting an old farmhouse where friends would come and go, embracing a carefree and unconventional lifestyle.

After finishing school, she found herself drawn to a poetic and enchanting circus in Munich called Circus from Cali. Captivated by its artistry, she approached the director, Andre Hiller—a renowned Australian writer and director—after a performance and expressed her desire to join. He simply replied, “You look like a circus girl, you can start tomorrow.” She performed for only three months, but the experience left a lasting impression, filling her with memories that continue to inspire her work—the performance, the theatrical, the fantasy, the glitter.

Later, she moved to Munich for university, but on her very first day, she was scouted to model by John Casablancas. She accepted the opportunity and never returned to school.

Modelling

When John Casablancas called Ellen von Unwerth to Paris, she didn’t hesitate. She packed her bags, boarded a train, and left school behind. Once there, she immersed herself in the world of modeling, building a career that spanned ten years.

At first, the industry was exhilarating—glamorous sets, renowned photographers, and the thrill of constant travel. But over time, von Unwerth felt increasingly constrained. The profession left little room for personal expression; she was judged primarily on her appearance and directed in ways that didn’t allow her true self to emerge. Though she appreciated the experiences and the people she met along the way, she couldn’t shake the feeling that something was missing.

Photography

Von Unwerth in Paris, 2003

Photography wasn’t something Ellen von Unwerth thought about during her modeling career. She was so immersed in the process of being in front of the camera that she never considered stepping behind it. That changed when her boyfriend gave her a camera, sparking an unexpected fascination.

On a trip to Kenya, von Unwerth began photographing her model friends, but she was equally drawn to capturing the villages and the people she encountered. When she returned, those who saw her photos were both impressed and surprised, wondering how she had managed to take such striking images. She credits it to luck, but soon, photography became a deep passion. She spent endless hours in the darkroom, refining her work and developing her signature style through experience.

Von Unwerth's first notable work was when she first photographed Claudia Schiffer in 1989. Her work has been published in Vogue, Vanity Fair, Interview, The Face, Arena, Twill, L'Uomo Vogue, I-D, and Playboy, and she has published several books of photography.

Von Unwerth did promotional photography for Duran Duran from 1994 to 1997 and did some photography for their 1990 album Liberty and 1997 album Medazzaland. Her work has been used on other album covers including Bananarama's Pop Life (1991), Belinda Carlisle's A Woman and a Man (1996), Cathy Dennis' Am I the Kinda Girl? (1996), Janet Jackson's The Velvet Rope (1997), All Saints' Saints & Sinners (2000), Dido's Life for Rent (2003), Britney Spears' Blackout (2007), Christina Aguilera's Back To Basics (2006) and Keeps Gettin' Better: A Decade of Hits and Rihanna's Rated R and Talk That Talk. She also shot the cover of Hole's album Live Through This (1994).

She shows women in enticing ways without objectifying them. In an interview with V Magazine, she said: "I never force women to do anything, but I give them roles to play so they are always active and empowered. In a 2018 interview with Harper's Bazaar, she explained her feminist approach to photography: "The women in my pictures are always strong, even if they are also sexy. My women always look self-assured. I try to make them look as beautiful as they can because every woman wants to feel beautiful, sexy and powerful. That's what I try to do."

Von Unwerth also noticed a difference in how women photograph other women. In an interview with SHOW Studio, she explained her beliefs of when a female photographer is behind the lens, the images tell a deeper story, capturing a unique sensitivity. Women behave differently, revealing more nuance and intimacy. In contrast, male photographers often focus on technical precision, with a sexiness directed more toward the camera than an organic interaction with the model.

Style of Work

Ellen von Unwerth aims to create images that are both sexy and celebratory, capturing women who exude confidence and embrace their sensuality. Known for her relaxed, playful approach on set, von Unwerth’s photographs feel warm, fun, and full of life. She explores themes of sensuality, femininity, and fantasy without objectifying her subjects. Some women in her images boldly embrace their desires, while others remain mysterious, drawing viewers into an intimate yet untouchable world. By blending fashion and fantasy, she creates a unique perspective that feels both empowering and exciting. She believes her work resonates more with women than men—many feel empowered by her images and want to be photographed themselves. However, she doesn’t see her style as being tied to gender; rather, it’s about energy, movement, and storytelling.

Von Unwerth’s photography is dynamic, often capturing subjects in motion rather than in static poses. She prefers moments that feel spontaneous and full of life. “Sometimes I start with the model sitting, but if she leans over to grab a glass of water, I find that shot more interesting because it's a little bit like a slice of life. It's not just her posing, it's something happening.” Her experience as a model gives her a deep understanding of what it means to be vulnerable in front of the camera. She knows that making a subject feel comfortable requires a level of psychology, allowing them to open up naturally.

A self-proclaimed feminist, von Unwerth believes in celebrating female sexuality without alienating anyone. “I’m a feminist, but I’m not trying to scare anyone away. I think women should still be sexually sexy and not scare men away.” To her, feeling great is what life is about, and she wants her work to reflect that. She hopes her images are remembered in a playful, inviting way—making viewers wish they had been there, as if they could step into the world she creates. More than just capturing a moment, she seeks to inspire others to embrace the same energy, joy, and confidence in their own lives.

Inspiration

Ellen von Unwerth approaches photography with a director’s mindset, crafting images that feel cinematic and full of narrative depth. “When I have a story, I can direct the girl, I can give her an idea in her head so she's not only posing for the picture—she actually plays a role, almost like in a movie… I think that’s better for me. You stop and look at the image for a while, trying to understand, and I think that’s more intriguing.” Rather than simply capturing a subject, she builds a world around them, sometimes even casting models to fit characters inspired by films she’s seen.

Her love for storytelling and theatricality traces back to her childhood in Germany, where the annual carnival was the highlight of her year. “I always loved dressing up… I was always dressing up as a princess, and it was like the best day of my life.” She was naturally drawn to creativity, whether through theater, poetry, or visual expression. As a teenager, she became fascinated by fashion photography, particularly the dreamy, ethereal work of David Hamilton, imagining herself as one of his models. Even at a young age, she was captivated by the world of fashion, imagery, and the art of transformation—an influence that continues to shape her work today.

Filmmaking

Von Unwerth has directed short films for fashion designers, and music videos for several pop musicians. She has directed commercials and web films for Revlon, Clinique, L'Oreal and Equinox.

Publications

• Unwerth, Ellen Von (1994). Snaps. ISBN 0-944092-29-2.
• Unwerth, Ellen von (1999). Wicked. ISBN 3-88814-899-5.
• Unwerth, Ellen Von (1998). Couples. ISBN 3-8238-0367-0.
• Miller, Harland (2003). Revenge. ISBN 1-931885-14-1.
• Unwerth, Ellen Von; Mennour, Galerie Kamel (2005). Omahyra & Boyd. ISBN 2-914171-20-X.
• Plumes et Dentelles. 2005. ISBN 2-84114-772-X.
• Sischy, Ingrid (2009). Fräulein. ISBN 978-3-8365-1477-4. (collectors). Unwerth, Ellen von (2011). Fräulein. ISBN 978-3-8365-2808-5. (trade).
• Unwerth, Ellen Von (2012). The Story Of Olga. ISBN 978-3-8365-3980-7.
• Unwerth, Ellen Von; Schulz, Mark (2017). Heimat. ISBN 978-3-8365-2887-0.
• Unwerth, Ellen Von (2018). VON Magazine.

Renowned Models

• Claudia Schiffer, Morocco & Nashville (1989)
• Eva Herzigova, Smoking in Bed (1994)
• Kate Moss, Milk (1995)
• Naomi Campbell, Bathtub (1996)
• Britney Spears (2003)
• Elle Macpherson, New York (2004)
• Gisele Bündchen, Saint Tropez (2004)
• Beyoncé, New York (2006)
• Rihanna, Rated R (2009)
• Lady Gaga, Brussels (2009)
• Christina Aguilera, LA (2019)

Magazines

She is a regular contributor to magazines all over the world such as: Cosmopolitan, Egoïste, ELLE, Glamour, i-D, Interview, Lula, Numéro, Paper Magazine, Playboy, Stern, The Face, The New York Times, Vanity Fair, Vogue (American, French, German, Italian, Russian).

Campaigns

Ellen von Unwerth has worked for various renowned brand campaigns such as; Absolut, Agent Provocateur, A.P.C., Aston Martin, Baccarat, Belvedere, Chanel, Chantal Thomass, Crazy Horse, David Morris, Diesel, Dior, Elisabetta Franchi, Ferragamo, G-Star, Guerlain, H&M, Hysteric Glamour, Jimmy Choo, Lacoste, L’Oréal, MAC Cosmetics, Mary Katrantzou, Mercedes-Benz, Miu Miu, Opel, Revlon, Rolex, Shiseido, Tommy Hilfiger, Veuve Cliquot, Victoria’s Secret, and many more.

Films

• I Create Myself – Demi Moore (1997)
• Naomi – Katherine Hammett
• Wendybird – Kirsten Dunst; short film of Erin Fetherston's Fall/Winter collection

Music videos

• "Femme Fatale" – Duran Duran (1993)
• "I Will Catch You" – Nokko (1993)
• "Ain't Nuthin' But a She Thang" – Salt-N-Pepa (1995)
• "Are 'Friends' Electric?" – Nancy Boy (1995)
• "Electric Barbarella" – Duran Duran (1997)
• "Bring It On" – N'Dea Davenport (1998)
• "I Got Trouble" – Christina Aguilera (2007)
• "Fragment One-And I Kept Hearing" – Kenneth Bager (2010)
• "Year of 4" – Beyoncé (2011)
• "Never Been in Love" – Cobra Starship ft. Icona Pop (2014)

Awards

• 1991: First prize, International Festival of Fashion Photography
• 2019: LUCIE award for her career achievement in Fashion Photography
• 2020: Editorial, Advertising and Fashion Photography award, Royal Photographic Society, Bristol, UK
• 2021 & 2023: Iconic Photographer Influencer Award

Exhibitions

• LADYLAND Opera Gallery, London
• “Guilty Pleasures”, The Hune, Paris (2018)
• “Devotion! 30 Years of Photographing Women” (2020)
• "On Top" at Picture This Gallery, Hong Kong (2025)
• "The Provocateur" at Lyndsey Ingram, London (2025)

External links

• Ellen von Unwerth at FMD
• Von Unwerth at the Music Video Database Archived 16 July 2012 at the Wayback Machine
• Von Unwerth on Vimeo